How to Inspect a Used Guitar: 10-Point Checklist

Step-by-Step Guide (10 Steps)

1. 1

   Headstock — Check for Cracks

   The headstock is the most common site of serious guitar damage because it's a structural weak point — a fall on the headstock end can crack or break it completely. Look carefully at the back of the headstock where it meets the neck, and at the front where the tuning machines mount. Hairline cracks here are serious. A repaired headstock break (you'll see a slightly different surface texture or color) is less serious if done by a qualified luthier, but significantly reduces resale value. Ask for photos from multiple angles if you're buying online. A crack on a Gibson-style angled headstock (Les Paul, SG) is more structurally serious than on a Fender-style flat headstock.

   A headstock repair costs $150–$500 depending on severity. A guitar with a cracked headstock that hasn't been repaired should be priced to reflect the full repair cost.

2. 2

   Neck — Sight Down for Straightness

   Hold the guitar at headstock level and sight down the neck toward the body, looking along the edge of the fretboard. The neck should be either perfectly straight or have a barely perceptible forward bow (called "relief"). A back-bow (curving away from the strings) or S-curve (back-bow in one section, forward bow in another) is a serious issue. Mild back-bows can sometimes be corrected with truss rod adjustment; S-curves usually cannot. On acoustic guitars, a ski-jump (the neck rising sharply near the body joint) is a common issue and typically requires a neck reset to fix.

   Looking down the bass side of the neck (low E string side) gives you the most accurate view of the neck relief.

3. 3

   Frets — Evaluate Wear and Condition

   Fret wear is normal on any played guitar. Examine frets 1–5 most carefully — these are the most used positions. Look for: flat spots in the center of each fret (normal wear — a fret level and crown restores playability for $100–$175), frets worn to the fretboard level (full refret needed at $250–$500), sharp or protruding fret ends (the ends of frets sticking out past the binding or fretboard edge, caused by the wood shrinking in low humidity — a setup fix), and uneven frets (some frets visibly higher than others, usually from the truss rod being out of adjustment or the fretboard not being level). Flat frets with enough material remaining can be crowned; frets worn to the fretboard need replacement.

4. 4

   Acoustic Top — Check for Cracks and Damage

   Acoustic guitars only: examine every inch of the spruce, cedar, or mahogany top (soundboard). Look for: hairline cracks along the grain, cracks radiating from the soundhole, finish checking (normal on lacquered instruments — cosmetic only), and any repaired cracks (look inside through the soundhole for bracing patches called cleats — small wood pieces glued across a crack). The most critical area: the lower bout under the bridge, where string tension concentrates. Any crack here is structural. Also check around the top's perimeter binding for separation — glue joint separation is usually an inexpensive repair ($30–$75).

5. 5

   Bridge — Check for Lift on Acoustics

   Acoustic guitars only: bridge lift is one of the most common acoustic guitar problems. Look at the back edge of the bridge (the edge furthest from the soundhole). There should be zero daylight between the bridge and the soundboard. Even 0.5mm of lift is early-stage lift that will progress without repair. On electric guitars, check that the bridge sits flat against the body and that all saddles are present. Tune-O-Matic bridges (Les Paul, SG) can crack at the mounting studs under heavy playing; check this area on Gibson-style guitars.

6. 6

   Nut — Check Slot Depth and Condition

   The nut sits at the headstock end of the fretboard and creates the break point for the open string. Check: the nut slots should be deep enough that the strings sit half-in (not too shallow, not too deep). Too-deep nut slots cause open string buzzing that sounds like fret buzz. Too-shallow slots cause the strings to ping and pop when tuning (they bind and release). Also check that the nut isn't cracked — bone nuts are excellent; plastic nuts are adequate; TUSQ and synthetic bone are good. A nut replacement costs $30–$75 and is a routine service item.

7. 7

   Electronics (Electric and Acoustic-Electric)

   Electric and acoustic-electric guitars only: plug in and test all controls before buying in person. Volume knob: turn from zero to maximum — no crackling or dropout. Tone knob: same test. Pickup selector switch: click through all positions — should be clean and definitive. Output jack: plug in a cable and wiggle it in the jack — no crackle. If testing remotely, ask for a video clip of the guitar plugged in with all controls active. A crackling pot is a $10–$30 spray-and-clean fix; a broken pickup is $50–$300 to replace. Electronic issues are generally repairable but affect the purchase price.

8. 8

   Tuning Machines

   Turn each tuning machine from low to high pitch through its full range. It should move smoothly with consistent tension. Slipping tuners (the string detuning as you're tensioning it) indicate worn gears — replaceable with aftermarket tuners for $30–$80 for the full set. Gritty, scratchy tuners may just need lubrication. On vintage guitars, original tuning machines (Kluson, Grover vintage-style) have collector value — replaced tuners reduce vintage value but are often actually better functionally. Ask if any tuning machines have been replaced.

9. 9

   Playability — Action and Intonation

   At the 12th fret, measure or estimate the string height. For electric: 4/64" (low E) and 3/64" (high E) is ideal. For acoustic: 7/64" (low E) and 5/64" (high E). High action makes the guitar harder to play and affects intonation. Low action causes buzzing. Intonation: fret the 12th fret harmonic, then press the 12th fret normally — the fretted note should be exactly in tune with the harmonic. If it's sharp, the saddle needs to move back; if flat, it needs to move forward. Intonation adjustment is a standard setup procedure. For acoustic guitars with a straight saddle (many older acoustics), individual string intonation is not adjustable — this is a limitation of the instrument, not a defect.

   Action and intonation issues are almost always fixable with a proper setup. They reduce the asking price but don't disqualify a guitar with good bones.

10. 10

    Overall Condition — Ask for What You Need

    After the checklist: list any concerns you couldn't verify from available photos or information. Send a single message to the seller with all your questions — this is efficient for both of you and signals you're a serious buyer. Request close-up photos of any area you couldn't see clearly. For guitars over $400, ask: "Has this guitar had any repairs?" Legitimate sellers answer honestly — their reputation depends on it. Trust your gut: a seller who is vague, impatient with questions, or reluctant to provide photos is a warning sign.

Frequently Asked Questions